Hail to the new Global Organic Textile Standards, Part I

We applaud the new Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). After 6 years of collaboration and hard work, the International Working Group on Global Organic Textile Standard (comprised of 4 leading organic textile standard organizations*), has transformed itself, unequivocally, into the foremost organic textile processing standard.

“The aim of the standard,” according to GOTS, “is to define requirements to ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labelling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer.”

“These standards for organic textiles cover the production, processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, exportation, importation and distribution of all natural fibres. The final products may include, but are not limited to fibre products, yarns, fabrics and clothes. The standards focus on compulsory criteria only.” (”Global Organic Textile Standard: Version 2.0″, http://www.global-standard.org)

Consumers familiar with national organic food standards will quickly recognize how the textile standards “provide for a subdivision into two label-grades. The only differentiation for subdivision is the minimum percentage of ‘organic’ / ‘organic ‑ in conversion’ material in the final product. …” (Ibid.)

Now, I quote from the “Global Organic Textile Standard – General Description” as it provides a shorter more consise overview of the subdivisions. (In the second blog in this series “The new Global Organic Textile Standards, Part II”, I discuss changes made to this text in version 2.0 of the GOTS, and the questions the changes raise.)

“Final products that are produced and manufactured in compliance with all compulsory criteria of these standards are to be labelled ‘Global Organic Textile Standard’.”

a) “organic” or “organic ‑ in conversion”

95% or more of the fibres must be of certified organic (or in conversion) origin. The remaining balance up to 5% may be made of non-organic fibres including defined regenerated and synthetic fibres. Blending (= mixing the same fibre in organic and conventional quality in one product) is not permitted.

b) “made with x % organic materials” or ” made with x % organic ‑ in conversion materials”

70% – 95% or more of the fibres must be of certified organic (or in conversion) origin. The remaining balance up to 30% may be made of non-organic fibres. Regenerated and synthetic fibres are limited to 10% (resp. 25% for socks, leggings and sportswear). Again blending is not permitted. (http://www.global-standard.org)

The International Work Group recently premiered the new GOTS logo during the International Federation of Organic Agricultural Movements (IFOAM) World Congress on 17th June, 2008 in Italy.

GOTS Logo

Version 2.0 of the Global Organic Textile Standard, referenced above, was published June 6th, 2008 and become effective July 2, 2008. I will speak more about version 2.0 in next post, “The new Global Organic Textile Standards, Part II”.

*The International Working Group consist in International Association Natural Textile Industry (IVN), Germany; Soil Association (SA), England; Organic Trade Association (OTA), USA; and Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA), Japan.

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